As Autumn turns to winter and thoughts turn to Advent, fans of Christmas markets should get planning. While there are good markets across Central Europe, some of the easiest to reach by train are in Germany and Austria. Below is a small selection from the many that take place at this time of year with a suggested route through a few too.
The best way to enjoy a Christmas market is with a mug of mulled wine (Glühwein) and an - initially - empty stomach. Seasonal delights such as Stollen and Lebkuchen (gingerbread) sit alongside traditional delicacies such as Spätzle and Bratwurst. Some regions have specific specialities but all modern markets are primarily places to eat and drink
We are starting in the west of Germany in Cologne (Köln) which can be reached by train from London St Pancras via Brussels (see table 20) in just over 4 hours.
Cologne offers seven Christmas Markets, the four biggest located downtown near the Cathedral. Each market has its own unique atmosphere with some also having performances of fairy tales including local legends the Heinzelmännchen (Cologne's famous house gnomes). Visitors can take in the main sights by catching the rather pedestrian Christmas-Market Express which trundles through the festively decorated streets.
From Cologne we travel south-east to Frankfurt via the high-speed line which can take as little as 1hr 06 mins (Table).
Frankfurt Christmas Market is one of the largest in all of Germany as well as one of the oldest. Markets take place on the Römerberg square, Paulsplatz and Mainkai quay, with hundreds of stalls offering arts, crafts and seasonal food and drink. Frankfurt has a number of traditional Christmas delicacies, including Bethmännchen (small almond biscuits), hot apple wine with cinnamon and cloves, and the delicious Quetschemännchen (colourful figures made of nuts and dried plums). Another unique culinary feature is the Honey House on St Paul's Square. This 300-year-old timber frame building, which is assembled every year especially for the market, proffers a rich variety of honey-based products, including many varieties of the nectar itself, mead, honey wine, candles and other goods made of beeswax.
Onwards to Nuremberg (Nürnberg) which takes just over 2 hours from Frankfurt (Table 920).
The main market is held in the city's largest square (Hauptmarkt), where stall holders present their traditional wares with medieval charm, competing for the award for the most beautiful stall design. Nuremberg specialises in spicy gingerbread (Lebkuchen), fruit loaves (Stollen), bakery goods, sweets and traditional Christmas articles such as angels, cribs, tree ornaments, candles and toys. For many Germans, Nuremberg is the place that epitomises Christmas and its markets are higher quality than many others. Favourite souvenirs include the "Nuremberg Plum People", little figures made from prunes. The council keeps a watchful eye on the goods being sold, any kind modern tat such as plastic fir garlands or mass produced toys are banned. There are several smaller markets such as Kinderweihnacht the children's market which has an old-fashioned carousel, Ferris wheel and steam train.
Some other Christmas Markets we suggest are the following:
Vienna, Austria
This beautiful and atmospheric city is perfect for a Christmas visit. Christkindlmärkte is the name for the many markets that pop up all over the city in the cobbled streets adorned with hundreds of fairy lights. Rathauspark in front of City Hall is the largest market with its giant tree, ice rink and fairground rides. You can also listen to international choirs singing carols to get you in the spirit.
Brussels, Belgium
At the largest Christmas market in Belgium, Winter Wonders’ 240 stalls sell a wide variety of Christmas items, from traditional gifts to delicious Belgian delicacies against the backdrop of a giant Ferris wheel. When the sun goes down, make your way to the Grand-Place for a dazzling sound and lights show.
Strasbourg, France
France's oldest Christmas market sells a variety of traditional items, sweets and mulled wine from around 300 wooden chalets dotted around different areas of the picturesque Alsatian town. The markets each have an individual feel and showcase different products or themes including one from a guest country, with a different one invited every year to display its Christmas wares.
Stockholm, Sweden
For a guaranteed snowy Christmas, head north to Stockholm's Skansen's Market which has been held annually since 1903. Pretty red huts sell traditional sausages, cheeses, spices and other homemade delights. The markets also sell an array of Swedish crafts alongside traditional Christmas ornaments and hand-dipped candles.
Berlin, Germany
If you head to Germany’s capital in winter (via a stop in Cologne or Nuremberg), you may be struck that it does not have all of the wintry charm of some of its western competitors, but it does boast Germany’s largest number of Christmas markets. The most picturesque are at Schloss Charlottenburg and Gendarmenmarkt but there is fun variety with local neighbourhood markets to Scandinavian themed places. A particular favourite is the highly eccentric medieval market at the RAW Gelände in the city’s east.
